Sunday, September 18, 2011

Lazy Sunday

It's Sunday afternoon and I'm sitting at a cafe in the most touristy spot in downtown Bethlehem: Manger Square. Behind me is a table of young, tattooed Germans asking the waiter where they can buy a helmet for when they ride their motos. To my left are three middle aged Spaniards wearing sunhats that should be illegal and to my right is a Palestinian family. Their daughter's been sitting under the table for about three minutes now. I think she may be trying to tie her brother's shoes together. At my table is a bored-looking American girl with a cup of coffee, an unopened copy of Catch 22 and nothing better to do than write down whatever's happening around her.

Okay, I think that the Germans are actually Dutch.

The Bethlehem Peace Center is directly across the square, where they host speakers and have a spectacularly overpriced bookshop.

...the Dutch people just started speaking French so....I'm doubting that they're Dutch.

On the right side of the square is the Church of the Nativity, with its steady stream of tourists and pilgrims strolling in and out. The doorway still bears bullet holes from the siege of the church by the Israeli Army for 39 days in 2002.  I myself can say I've been kicked out on two separate occasions for talking too loudly. Both times by a monk who was dressed suspiciously like Severus Snape.

Today, the outer walls of the church have massive signs depicting a Palestinian flag emerging from the UN. Over the past day, the number of Palestinian flags around Bethlehem has skyrocketed: lining the streets, in front of shops and on almost every roof of Aida Camp.

Meanwhile, the settlers are also prepping for Abu Mazen's trip to the UN, though in a slightly more...aggressive fashion. This Tuesday, settlers will hold "sovereignty marches" from various settlements to nearby Palestinian towns and cities. The purpose being "to make it clear to the Arabs who the home owners are."

(Riddle solved. One of them is Dutch, the rest are French).

So. The settlers have announced--lest there were any doubts--that they have no qualms using live ammunition against the Palestinians.  But just in case anyone gets cold feet and doesn't want to fire live ammo, there are countless other options. They've been waking up to tear gas cannisters, stun grenades and trained attack dogs under their pillows, courtesy of the IDF fairy, for quite some time now.

The Spanish woman seems pretty cranky. Her salad is much larger than she was expecting.   I think school just let out--the square's been invaded by children.

The only thing that is certain about next week is absolutely nothing. It could lead to a huge economic downturn here. Could be a massive increase in settler violence. Could be that the weather finally starts to cool down. Could be huge Palestinian demonstrations in support of statehood. Could be that I finally get my hookah addiction under control. Could be huge Palestinian demonstrations in anger that the US flexed its veto muscle in the Security Council against them yet again. Could be the third Intifada. Could be I wash my sheets. Could be...

1 comment:

  1. Haha Beth I miss you! :) Great post, it sounds like you're having an amazing time over there...

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